HVAC Repair in San Marcos, TX
Homes here need heat from November through March and cooling from April through October. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Hays County will get in touch.
Tell us about the job
It takes about a minute.
Twelve months of work, in a climate that swings hard
Your system does not get an off season here. It cools from April through October, with afternoons that hit 94°F, then heats from November through March, when nights average 41°F. That is a compressor or a burner working nearly every month of the year.
That kind of load wears on the parts that start the system up, the capacitor that kicks the compressor on, the contactor that switches it, the igniter if you have gas heat. Storms add to it. The area has logged 36 damaging wind events and 8 winter storms over the past ten years, and across Texas a third of households lost power for a full day or more in 2024. A hard power cut on top of daily strain is often what pushes a worn part the rest of the way out. That is when you notice, the air stops moving, or the house will not warm up or cool down like it should.
- 5 months
- November through March, your system heats
- 7 months
- April through October, it cools
- 41°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 94°F
- the average summer afternoon it cools against
NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals
Texas requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.
The Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation tests and records the contractor, not each job. That means the business doing the work has passed the state's exam and is on file with the state. The license stays attached to the contractor across every job they take on, not to any single repair.
For a repair like this, that license is what stands behind the person doing the work. It covers the contractor, so the accountability for the job traces back to the license they hold, not to a separate check on this particular repair.
Source: Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation
- Why is my heat not working?
- Start with the thermostat. Make sure it is set to heat and the temperature is set above the room temperature, since a setting bumped a degree or two can look like a dead system. If the thermostat is fine, check the breaker for the furnace or air handler, since a tripped breaker will shut off the whole unit. Most homes here heat with electricity, so a breaker trip or a power blip can stop the heat without anything being broken. If the furnace has a standing pilot, look for the pilot light itself. If it uses an igniter instead, you will not see a flame to check, and a furnace that clicks but does not light needs a contractor to look at the igniter or flame sensor.
- Why is my system running but not cooling the house?
- Check the air filter first. A filter clogged with dust blocks airflow across the indoor coil, and when airflow drops too low the coil can ice over, which stops cold air even though the system keeps running. Look at the outdoor unit too. If the fan outside is not spinning or the coil is covered in leaves and dirt, the system cannot release the heat it is pulling out of the house. If the filter is clean and the outdoor unit looks normal, the problem is likely low refrigerant or a failing part inside the system, and that needs a contractor with gauges to find.
- What can I check before calling for HVAC repair?
- Check the thermostat settings, the batteries in it if it takes them, and the breaker for the system. Those catch a surprising number of no-heat and no-cool calls on their own. Check the air filter next and replace it if it is gray or clogged, since restricted airflow causes problems on both the heating and cooling side. Look at the outdoor unit if you have central air or a heat pump, and clear away any leaves, grass clippings or debris packed against it. If the system still is not working after that, a licensed contractor will need to diagnose it, and in Texas that means someone holding a license through the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation.