Heat Pump Repair in Round Rock, TX
Homes here need heat from November through March and cooling from April through October. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Williamson County will get in touch.
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Round Rock asks a heat pump to run almost year round
Your heat pump works nearly every month here, cooling from April through October and switching over for heat from November through March. That switch back and forth wears the reversing valve, and when it sticks the system blows cold air when you want heat, or won't shut off cold mode at all.
Summer afternoons averaging 95°F push the compressor hard for seven straight months. Winter nights averaging 40°F mean the outdoor unit still has to pull heat from cold air, and if the defrost cycle isn't clearing the ice off the coil, you'll notice the outdoor unit frosted over and the air inside running cooler than it should. Half the homes here heat with electricity, so when the heat pump falters, there's no backup keeping the house warm. With storms knocking out power across Texas, a heat pump that won't restart on its own after the power comes back is its own kind of problem.
- 5 months
- November through March, your system heats
- 7 months
- April through October, it cools
- 40°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 95°F
- the average summer afternoon it cools against
NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals
Texas requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.
The license is held by the contractor, not issued job by job, so it is the company and the people TDLR has on record, not the specific repair, that the state has tested and tracked.
For a heat pump repair that means the license is what stands behind the person in your home. If the work involves opening the refrigerant side of the unit, the technician also needs EPA Section 608 certification, a federal requirement that applies in every state regardless of what Texas licenses.
Source: Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation
- Why is my heat pump blowing cold air?
- In heating mode, air from the vents feels cool next to your skin even when the system is working right, because it comes out warmer than the room but well below body temperature. If the air is actually cold, check that the thermostat is set to heat and not fan only, since fan only just moves room air around without warming it. If the outdoor unit is caked in ice or frost and the air stays cold for a long stretch, the system may be stuck in defrost or low on refrigerant. A contractor can check the refrigerant charge and the defrost control.
- Why is there ice on my heat pump?
- Some frost on the outdoor coil in cold weather is normal, and the unit runs a defrost cycle on its own to clear it. Thick ice that does not melt off, or ice that builds back up fast, usually means airflow across the coil is blocked or the defrost cycle is not kicking in. Check that the fan blades are not iced solid and that nothing is stacked against the unit blocking airflow. Winter nights here average 40°F, cold enough for this to happen more than once a season, so if the ice keeps coming back, have a contractor check the defrost control and the refrigerant level.
- Why is my heat pump running but not cooling?
- The unit turning on but not cooling the house usually comes down to a dirty filter, an outdoor fan that has stopped spinning, or refrigerant running low. Start with the filter. A clogged one can cut airflow enough to stop the coil from cooling properly. If the filter is clean and the outdoor unit is running but the air from the vents is not cold, the system likely needs a contractor to check the refrigerant charge and the compressor. With summer afternoons here averaging 95°F, a system that is not cooling right will fall behind fast, so it is worth getting looked at soon rather than waiting.